Dehydrating Potatoes

Dehydrated cubed potatoes

We grow a lot of potatoes in our garden and store them in the root cellar over the winter.  By spring they're starting to sprout or shrivel, so I set some aside for planting and I bring the rest in to dehydrate.  We use the dried potatoes until the next crop is ready.  They're also great to take along when we go camping.

In the picture above, the two jars are full of dried cubed potatoes.  I peeled and partially cooked the potatoes before spreading them on drying racks.  I usually cook them until they're about 2/3 done cooking.  Then I drain them and run cold water over them to stop the cooking process.  This also cools them so that I can handle them without burning my fingers.

But let's back up a minute.  After the potatoes are peeled and I'm cutting, slicing, shredding, or cubing the potatoes, I put them in a big bowl of water that has a Vitamin C tablet crushed and mixed with the water.  This keeps the potatoes from turning brown or purple (yes, they do sometimes turn a reddish-purple, or even black).  You can use ascorbic acid, which is Vitamin C but sold in bottles for preserving the color of fresh foods, or any of the "fruit fresh" products to help retain the color.  They only need to be in the water for a couple minutes, then I remove them and dump them into the pan of boiling water.

When they're done I dump all the trays of potatoes into cake pans, then using my canning funnel, I pour them into jars.  When I'm canning I set aside any jars that have tiny chips in the rim, or the ones that aren't 'real' canning jars, and I use them for dried food.  I can also reuse a lid that had previously been used to pressure can.  They're not safe to re-use for canning but they're great to use on jars of dehydrated food.

We also use a meat slicer to slice potatoes for dehydrating.  These can be reconstituted and used for scalloped potatoes, or for fried potatoes and onions, and many other dishes.

I cook them until they're partially cooked, then spread them on dehydrator racks.  This is my Nesco dehydrator.

This is what they look like when they're almost done.  In the dehydrator they only take a few hours to dry, but in the oven or air-drying they take a day or two, depending on temperature and humidity.

These are shredded potatoes that I'm ready to boil.  They cook quickly so I only leave them in the water for about two minutes.  I unintentionally learned how to make instant mashed potatoes the first time I dried shredded potatoes.

The 'shredded' potatoes were overcooked and stuck together, and they were a mess to spread on the dehydrator racks!

No problem!  When they were done dehydrating I put them in the blender and made potato granules and we use them like instant mashed potatoes.

The next batch went better.  I dumped the shredded potatoes into the boiling water and fished them out about 2 minutes later.  You can see that these are separating and spreading better on the racks.

These are commercial shredded potatoes.  I got an incredible deal on eight bags of frozen shredded potatoes and dehydrated all eight bags spread on racks and placed on shelves above and behind our woodstove.  

I also made more 'instant mashed" potatoes this year.  I don't recommend plastic bags for long-term storage, but I used this tortilla bag to store these to take on camping trips.  

Here's a closer look at the cubed, dried potatoes, also stored in a tortilla bag for camping.  I prefer not to haul my glass jars out into the back-country.  Tortilla bags are great because they have good ziplock closures.

A closer look at the finished dehydrated potato slices.  They look a bit like potato chips but they're not light and flaky.  They need to sit in water for a while to re-hydrate and soften, and then cooked.

Potatoes are a versatile food that often gets a bad rap as being "fattening" or starchy.  But when you work hard growing your own food you probably work it off, and some of the 'fattening" qualities come from the things that are often added to the potatoes, either during cooking or at the table.  In a preparedness or emergency situation, potatoes can provide more to keep you going than a lot of vegetables contain.  So don't be afraid to grow or buy them and add them to your storage.  Dehydrating is a good way to keep them for a longer time.  I know of at least two people who dry potatoes and keep adding them to a 5-gallon bucket until it's full, then they throw in an oxygen absorber and seal the buckets.  They live in warmer climates and don't have root cellars, so both use dehydrating as a way to preserve potatoes.

Potatoes can be canned, too.  The first time I canned them I cut them into small cubes and when I used them, they became mashed potatoes.  The next time I cut them into large quarters and they canned up great. Potatoes must be pressure canned, not water-bath canned.

Please leave comments or questions below, or email them to povertyprepping@yahoo.com

Susan

Personal and Clothing Hygiene - DK Richardson Guest Post

Personal and clothing hygiene

More men were lost in the Civil War to poor sanitation than were ever killed in battle; this is true for the Boer war as well. I cover basic field sanitation, describe ways to wash your clothes in a disaster situation and list several ways to bath while in less than ideal conditions. Being clean isn't about smelling bad, it is a health issue. This chapter assumes you have been forced from your home, and are not at a developed campground or shelter - that is to say, worst case. I cover in-home issues in the next section.

Section One - Field Sanitation

Sanitation in the field can be problematic. Water is normally in short supply and unless you are staying at a shelter or developed campground, there are no toilet facilities. If you cook your food, disposal of the wash water (and food scraps) will quickly become an issue as well. The U.S. Army has a manual, FM 21-10 (Or FM 4-25-12) should you wish to look at how the Big Army covers this - unfortunately, almost none of the material is of use for a small family or individual.

Since we've already covered 'Water' in a prior chapter, we'll move onto some of the more gritty aspects of the subject. Remember - DO NOT DRINK UNTREATED WATER>

Field Sanitation:

Personal items and equipment.

Some of the personal items that you should have in your kit (for each individual) are:

Toilet paper and baby wipes - put these in a plastic bag to keep them dry.

Lip balm and sun screen. Your skin is an entry point for disease, protect it.

Foot powder

Insect repellant - bugs will drive you crazy and some carry disease.

Hand sanitizing gel - several small bottles are better than one large container.

Toothbrush and toothpaste or tooth powder - good dental hygiene is important.

Washcloth

Large hand towel or microfiber towel

Hand soap - several brands are sold for camping, like Dr. Bonner's.

*If you live in tick country, a small container of baby oil or Vaseline

*If you live in a very bug/mosquito prone area, a headnet and square of bug screen are a big plus.

*If you have the space, a hand-pump spray bottle or fold-up solar shower will come in handy.

Equipment items:

You will need at least a trowel or small shovel - for a family group, you'll find quickly that you need a real full-sized shovel if you will be on your own for more than a couple of days. A modern 'tool, entrenching, folding' should be more than enough for a couple of days.

*Metal buckets - if you think you will be forced from your home for an extended period, a set of 3 gallon metal buckets are worth their weight in gold. I'll explain why, even if they don't make into our short term DIY disaster kit.

Human waste disposal.

Human waste must be deposed of properly - it poses a tremendous health hazard.  If you do not have access to a cesspit or outdoor toilet, you will need to dig your own latrine or slit trench for human waste. ALWAYS bury your waste. This helps to keep it out of the local watershed and reduces the spread of disease.

Why? Simple - During the response to the Haiti earthquake, a single response team from Nepal started a cholera outbreak - from their toilet faculties leaking into the Meye river. In 17 months cholera had killed more than 7,050 Haitians and sickened more than 531,000, or 5 percent of the population. Lightning fast and virulent, it spread to every Haitian state, erupting into the world’s largest cholera epidemic despite a huge international mobilization still dealing with the effects of the Jan. 12, 2010, earthquake.

If you are on the move, you can dig a fast 'cat hole' to bury your waste in a individual basis. The hole should be about a foot (8 to 13 inches) deep and about a foot across. If you are on grass or sod, cut the sod and lay it back, you'll use it later; set the evacuated dirt to one side. Once you have finished your business, I have seen recommendations to burn your toilet paper before burying the waste. After cleaning your hands, use the evacuated dirt to bury the waste and restore then sod, if at all possible.

If you are forced to camp in an unimproved area, you will want to dig a slit trench of disposal of human waste. The trench should be about 2.5 feet deep and as wide as you shovel. Pile the dirt at one end to cover your waste after using the facility.
 

Wash hands carefully after a bowel movement or face the consequences. I recommend washing with soap and water, and then use a hand sanitizer to endure your hands are really clean. Adults need to monitor children closely to ensure they clean themselves well and wash their hands as described. Locate your latrine well away from any water source and your camp.

Camp sanitation:

Food scraps and wash water.  

These attract animals and insects. Wet garbage/food scraps may be disposed of in the slit trench and buried. Dig a dry well (French well) and use it to dispose of your wash and rinse wastewater.

Garbage.

Gather and dispose of all garbage as it is generated, and ensure your disposal methods meet local laws/ordinances in this regard.  Garbage is an attractant for animals and can pose a health hazard.  If you are forced to bury your trash, dig a deep pit and cover the garbage as it is pitted. Burning of garbage may reduce bulk, but check local ordinances to ensure you remain legal. I'll have a bit more on this in Section Two.

Food storage. 

 

Store food away from your camp area and secure it from insects. Inspect food closely prior to cooking to ensure it is free from contamination. In the case of your DIY disaster kit, a simple inspection to ensure the food container has not been breached should be enough.

Personal Hygiene

Personal hygiene is important, no matter your circumstances.  Washing of your hands is the best defense against disease, and being clean is a major morale factor.

Brushing your teeth is not just polite, it can prevent larger medical problems, so pack a toothbrush and toothpaste or toothpowder for each member of your group. Brush after every meal.

Concentrated "Camp soap" can be used for everything but brushing your teeth.  Consider putting a bottle or two in your kit. Dish soap will do for hand washing, but remember, over time it can cause issues with your skin. If you don't carry camp soap, several of the smaller hand soap bars, often found in hotels, will work just as well. Shampoo in travel sized containers is a real morale booster - clean hair just helps you to feel better.

You can take a 'shower' with very little water - and I can assure you from personal experience, even cold water will work to clean you, but tepid/warm water makes for a better experience. Children fuss less with warm water. So, how do you take a field shower with little water?

I've been in short water situations, so I first make a small 'basin' and put a plastic bag in the basin to catch the wash water runoff. Add a couple of cups of hopefully warm water to your spray bottle. Strip and stand in the basin, then wet yourself with water from your bottle.

One cup of water (less, actually) will make a standard size washcloth dripping wet. Add soap and work into a lather.

Wash. That is to say, scrub away. (If you are going to bathe more than one person, put the washcloth in a baggie/plastic bag to keep it clean(er).

Use the remaining water in the spray bottle to rinse.

As dumb as this may sound, if you have never taken this kind of shower, practice at home first. Tell the children it's a science experiment. Measure how much water you use to wet and rinse yourself. If water is not an issue, then the so-called Solar Showers that hold anywhere from 4 to 5 gallons of water provide a more familiar experience.

Capturing your wash and rinse water allows you to recycle it for washing your clothing. Yes, I know - but, think of it as a pre-wash - to get the worst of the dirt out before you hand wash and rinse the clothing. This clothes washing isn't much of an issue with your DIY disaster kit, as we're aiming for no more than 4 days of support.

Section Two - At Home.

Water.

Most people are completely dependant on municipal water systems for their water supply. One item that I recommend to everyone is a bathtub bladder. These will hold 100 gallons of pre-disaster water, assumablely safe to drink. (SeeWaterBoB or bathtub bladder).

 

Human waste disposal:

If you are on a septic system, you will likely have no issues, outside of a flooding situation. If you are on a city sewer system, you may have real issues and more quickly than you realize. Many of these systems use lift pumps and when the power is out, the sewage will quickly back up - sometimes into your home.

If you don't have a backflow preventer, you should check to see how your local sewer system is configured, then decide if a back flow preventer is a good investment. I would recommend it in any case.

If you are on a septic system, use your kitchen and bath wash water or any other gray water to flush your toilet.

If you are unable to use your home sanitation system, you need to decide how you will deal with human waste. Sneaking out at night to dump your waste into a storm drain or runoff ditch will not make your neighbors happy.

A simple 5 gallon bucket, some trash bags and kitty litter will work, but again, you will need to have some way to dispose of the waste that is...call it ethical.

My best suggestion is to check with your local authority for your best and or legal disposal options are in a disaster - before the need arises.

Garbage:

A metal 55 gallon drum equipped with a wire hardware mesh cover to prevent embers from escaping may be your best bet for disposal of trash that will burn. Several holes in the bottom and sides of the drum will aid in the combustion of the trash. Cans may be crushed to save on volume. Again, check with your local authority for trash collection locations in a disaster.

 

Wash day:

Washing day need not be too terrible, but it will be work, make no mistake about. A pair of plastic bins that hold several gallons of water as well as some kind of agitator will get you started. If clean water is in short supply, you will have to decide what will need washing the most.

Rather than re-invent the wheel, so to speak, I'll direct you to this excellent Brit site

http://www.tes.co.uk/teaching-resource/History-Washday-3004412/

Current non-electric cleaning offerings may be found at Lehman's on line.

https://www.lehmans.com/c-235-washing.aspx

 

 

 

Thank you, Mr. Richardson.

Please leave comments and suggestions below, or email them to povertyprepping@yahoo.com

Food Storage Pizza

Sausage pizzas made from food storage.

 

Part of our food storage includes canning cheese and meat.  Up until a few years ago we didn't have enough solar power here on our off-grid homestead to run a refrigerator, so things like cheese had to be canned so we could have them without making the long drive to town.  I've already posted about our food storage cheeseburgers, but pizza is another one of our special foods from our storage.

 

I start off by making the crust, which is very similar to making bread.  I use one teaspoon of yeast rather than the 2 1/4 teaspoons that equal one packet of active dry yeast.  I also add a teaspoon of baking soda, but other than that I use the same recipe I use for bread.  In this picture I used pie pans because we were camping in our homemade camper-in-an-old-uhaul truck and I didn't have my pizza pan along.  It worked good; my husband and I each got a 'pan pizza'.

 

For the sauce I open a can of tomato sauce or spaghetti sauce.  If it's tomato sauce I add half a teaspoon each of oregano, basil, thyme, garlic powder, and fennel.  I spread that on the crust.

 

Then I open a jar of mozzarella cheese.

 

 

I dip the jar in hot water to loosen the cheese from the sides of the jar, then using a knife I ease the cheese out of the jar.  The cheese is the same consistency as fresh mozzarella cheese and it grates very nicely.  In the picture at the top of this post I didn't have my cheese grater with me so I used my fingers and a paring knife to crumble the canned cheese into little pieces, and I spread those over the sauce on the crust. Now I keep a grater in the camper.

 

Next comes meat.

 

 

That particular pizza was made with our home-canned pizza sausage, which was made from a couple of hogs we raised and butchered in 2008.  The picture (and pizza) is from summer 2010.  I store home-canned meat in our dark, cool, hand-dug root cellar, which lengthens it's shelf life and we're not afraid to use meat a couple years old.

 

 

This food-storage pizza has ham and pineapple on it.  I used canned ham chunks, the kind that come in little cans like tuna.  It came from the Dollar Tree store.  I have canned small jars of ham, too, using leftover ham from a holiday meal.  The pineapple is canned pineapple tidbits from the store.

 

 

 

Other toppings I might put on the pizza are (clockwise, from bottom left) onions, peppers, mushrooms, olives, and in the center, tomoatoes.  These are all home-dried, and the onions, peppers, and tomatoes were grown in our garden.  The mushrooms and olives came from store-bought cans.  When I open a can I rarely use the whole thing, so I spread the leftovers on drying racks and set them on special brackets we have above our woodstove.  When they're dry, I add them to the jars.

 

When I first start a pizza I decide what is going to go on it.  I put the dry vegetables in a bowl and add room-temperature water to them.  If I do that before I start the crust, the vegetables are reconstituted and ready to use by the time I'm ready for them.

 

We don't use the whole can of pineapple, either, so next time I make a pizza I'm going to try dehydrating the rest of the can.  My friend Dave, of Dave's Kitchen, says he does it with success.  He has electricity, though, and uses an electric dehydrator.  I'll have to make sure we have enough heat from the woodstove to dry the pineapple before it spoils or molds.

 

I'd like to try drying half of the can of ham, too, since we don't need the whole thing for a pizza.  Both ham and crumbled sausage should dehydrate well, since they're both cooked meats.  It would keep long enough to use it for another meal, without worrying about refrigeration. 

 

One of the pizzas I plan to make from food storage soon will have canned chicken chunks and tomato, which is one of my favorite pizzas.  I might even use some canned cream cheese and make it an alfredo pizza instead of using tomato sauce.

 

These are just suggestions for a special meal from food storage.

Please leave comments or suggestions below, or email them to povertyprepping@yahoo.com

My bad - Error in Bug-out Bucket book

    I know not everyone here has read my new book about Bug-out Buckets, Specialty Buckets, and Transition Buckets, and this post is not intended to sell the book. 

    A reader pointed out an error where I talked about the foil emergency blankets.  I had done a search on Amazon to get prices while I was writing the book.  In my haste I wrote that the most expensive emergency blanket I found was a Dynarex foil blanket for $89.  I was surprised when I saw that on Amazon but I've seen some amazingly high prices on things, so I figured they catered to the segment of the market that makes considerably more money than most of us!  But hey, even rich people can be preppers.  On some of the forums I've been too there are people with what I call "Million Dollar Preps".  So I shrugged and put the price in the book.

    I did not click on the product link for a closer look.  And that was... my bad.

    That price is for 120 blankets.  Let me say that again.  That price is for one hundred and twenty blankets!  Not for just one, as I stated in my book.

    I went in to the book file today and removed that and re-uploaded it to Amazon, but it doesn't do any good for the people who already have the book in either form, kindle or print.  I offer my apologies.  I hope I haven't caused anyone to think less of the Dynarex company for my error.  I have set a goal to buy an order of emergency blankets and donate them to our local food bank to be distributed with their monthly food boxes as soon as I am able to.

      Please leave comments or questions below, or by email at povertyprepping.com

      Susan

Dave's Kitchen - Sulfuring dried fruit

 

Sulfuring

I ran across this in an old cook book and it reminded me about something my dad did with dried apples when I was a kid. It was called "Sulfuring".

It calls for placing dried fruit on racks in a wooden barrel and lighting an ounce of sulfur in the bottom and letting it burn and allowing the fumes to rise up and seep into the fruit. The barrel would be left for a full day after the sulfur burned, then the fruit was gathered and stored.

The purpose for this was to keep pests out of it while it was stored, and when my dad did it, it worked. I don't ever remember any bugs getting into the apples when we would eat the slices throughout the winter.

 

My mom would store the apple slices in paper bags in the cabinets. so there was plenty of opportunity for insects to get into them. We didn't store them in air tight containers like I do nowdays.

Some dried fruit is still treated with sulfur, I can sometimes taste it in dried fruit we get at the grocery store. Its a taste that once you know what it is, you will not forget it. Its not really an unpleasant taste but you will know it is there.

I checked with my Dad and he said that he has still seen "Campden Tablets" available in some places. They are "Pills" that you drop into water and they release the same SO2(sulfur dioxide) that burning sulfur powder produces.

Caution must be used when burning sulfur.  It is very toxic and can kill if enough of it is breathed.  That may be why it is not common now.

 

 

Thanks, Dave, for sharing this interesting bit of history with us.  If times got bad and air-tight containers coulnd't be found, this might once again be used more widely.  The sulfur pills sound safer than burning sulfur powder!  I wonder which they use at commercial dehydrating plants?

 

Please leave comments or questions below, or mail them to: povertyprepping@yahoo.com

First Aid and Medical - Guest Post: DK Richardson

 

First aid and medical

"Baby, you put me stitches..." The DKR Rockers

Summary -

As a former licensed EMT and having worked while in the Air Force as a military medic, the focus here should be on what training you have. I'll outline a basic First Aid Kit (FAK) and let you know why this is important. I describe an advanced FAK, one that is layered - so that the supplies you do buy are appropriate and inexpensive.

The types of injury you can treat with the FAK is discussed as is the issues of Over the Counter medicines. While you can make a very nice FAK for less than a commercial offering, training is one area where you are advised to obtain commercial training. I've listed sources for hands on training and give you sources on the 'Web for follow on and self-training.

Every first aid kit begins with TRAINING!

I find one of the better training providers here in South-Central Alaska is the American Red Cross - a National organization, they are a good first place to check for your training. I'm providing this listing of classes for your convenience. Currentinformation can always be found at www.redcross.org

Online Blended Learning

The American Red Cross program blends web-based technology with traditional classroom learning. Complete the online tutorial at your pace and the written test online. Then complete your skills session in two hours. all your local office for more information.

Wilderness First Aid - 2 Year Certification
This two-day class consists of hands-on activities about how to respond to emergencies when away from the EMS system. Co-developed by the Boy Scouts of America, students will learn a variety of topics including advanced wound care, head and spinal injuries, shock, environmental illnesses and winter survival. Includes free first aid kit. Wilderness First Aid is valid for two (2) years.

Adult CPR/AED with First Aid PLUS Child and Infant CPR
The CPR/ AED component of this class includes conscious and unconscious choking, rescue breathing, and CPR for adults, children, and infants, and AED . CPR/ AED certificate is valid for two (2) years. First Aid includes caring for sudden illnesses, bleeding control, caring for burns, etc. First Aid certificate is valid for two (2) years.

Adult CPR/AED with First Aid
The CPR/ AED component of this class includes conscious and unconscious choking, rescue breathing, and CPR/ AED for adults. CPR/ AED certificate is valid for two (2) years. First Aid includes caring for sudden illnesses, bleeding control, caring for burns, etc. First Aid certificate is valid for two (2) years.

Standard First Aid
First Aid includes care for sudden illness, bleeding control, care for burns, poisoning, allergic reactions, etc. First Aid certificate is valid for two (2) years.

Self-aid and Buddy Care

http://capnhq.custhelp.com/ci/fattach/get/399/0/filename/afh36-2218v2.pdf

The Red Cross recommends that all first aid kits for a family of four include the following:

• First Aid Manual - a must have.
• 2 absorbent compress dressings (5 x 9 inches)
• 25 adhesive bandages (assorted sizes)
• 1 adhesive cloth tape (10 yards x 1 inch)
• 5 antibiotic ointment packets (approximately 1 gram)
• 5 antiseptic wipe packets
• 2 packets of aspirin (81 mg each)
• 1 blanket (space blanket)
• 1 breathing barrier (with one-way valve)
• 1 instant cold compress
• 2 pair of nonlatex gloves (size: large)
• 2 hydrocortisone ointment packets (approximately 1 gram each)
• Scissors
• 1 roller bandage (3 inches wide)
• 1 roller bandage (4 inches wide)
• 5 sterile gauze pads (3 x 3 inches)
• 5 sterile gauze pads (4 x 4 inches)
• Oral thermometer (non-mercury/nonglass)
• 2 triangular bandages
• Tweezers

Okay, that covers the basics.

In my experience. many first aid kits seem to have been built with either a limited vision or a lack of foresight regarding their use in a disaster situation. Worse, some kits contain items that if misused or improperly used can further injure/permanently cripple/kill the‘patient’. Hence my emphasis on professional training - it is easily as good an investment as any you'll make.

I was fortunate enough to have had the opportunity to receive training from both the military and the EMT community to provide field medical support. and to work in military hospital ERs for several years. I was a State licensed and Nationally Registered EMT for many years as well.

Using this field and clinical experience, I have some ideas on First Aid Kits that I think amy be of use to you. I make suggestions on how to build a multi-layer kit, offer some specific advice on items not normally found in First Aid Kits and the reasoning behind the suggestions.

Finally, I posted an image of a multi-layered kit, just to you can see what I've been going on about.

DISCLAIMER - I am not a doctor, and I've never even played one on television.
Always seek consultation with a medical professional whenever possible.

If you have not been trained on certain procedures, do notattempt to perform the procedure - you can harm, permanently injure or worse, cause a lifelong disability.

This information is for educational purposes and for discussion.

It will hopefully get you started on your own training program and help you to build a First Aid Kits that will support your family or group.

No first aid kit, no matter advanced, well stocked or massive is a substitute for training.

Concept
The multilayer approach in building this resource is focused on supporting you, your family or small affiliated group in an abnormal situation, be it long term or short term. It provides the means for escalating support for different types of injury and illness found in a situation with limited or no routine medical care access - such is found in disaster areas.

Each kit supports or provides items to be used with the next level kit. Modular in nature, this allows for the medical supplies to be carried by many members of a group, should displacement occur.

Kit Limitations
Some injuries are so grievous that without surgery, drugs, specialized medical equipment and techniques, the odds of patient survival are extremely limited. Likewise, some injuries while non-emergent, require very specialized treatment - for example, a detached retina. Finally, some diseases require special testing in a lab setting to determine the course of treatment. All of these fall outside of what I and many others would consider “first aid”.

You can, however, provide real first aid care for an injured or sick person that will allow them to recover from their injury - with or without advanced medical intervention. You will find this the driving focus here. Items listed are suggestions, feel free to change or add as you see fit.

Multi-layer - what does that mean? It means you have a series of medical resources (First Aid Kits) or modules if you prefer, each with different levels of items and equipment to match treatment of what the patient is presenting to you, the care provider. Simply put, the modules are designed to support the treatment of different levels of injury.

These levels are:
Minor injury, individual
Minor trauma, individual with limited bleeding
Expansion module for minor trauma kit to deal with significant bleeding
Major trauma - as bad as it gets
Clinical or ‘sick call’’ type issues

Minor injury, individual.

Failure to care for even a seemly minor injury can kill you.

My Grandmother was very alert to minor problems - she often told me that “The Presidents son died from an untreated blister” just before dosing me with some noxious concoction. As it turns out - she remembered a tragic death in the Presidents family - that of Calvin Coolidge Jr in 1924 - from a infected toe blister.

I worked with a youngster in the ER who presented advanced sepsis (blood poisoning). His knee was swollen, with‘angry’ or bright red lines running up the leg. He was in pain with an elevated temperature. We used a large bore syringe to remove over 70cc of pus and cloudy liquid from the swollen knee, then a drain was installed. He was given IV antibiotics. After a hospital stay, he was released and made a full recovery.
What happened? He fell while playing, scraping his knee. His folks washed the area but did nothing further. Even as the child complained of pain in his knee, no further ‘first aid’was attempted. On the morning of the second day after injury, he presented a swollen knee - again, nothing was done until late that night, when he made it into the ER. A string of bad moves that could have easily killed the child.

A simple Individual First Aid Kit (IFAK) would have been enough to properly treat this child for what began as a minor injury. In a multi-layer system, the IFAK is the first of 4 layers - this kit should have something to:

-clean an injury,

-some antibiotic ointment and

-something to cover the injury.

I keep one of several IFAK at hand, work or play. The size factor is focused on something small enough so that you always have it hand - in a pocket, purse, briefcase, or toolbag. One per individual, extras for workspace.

Suggested contents: (you can have whatever you want, these are just suggestions)
Case, hard, designed for cigarettes. Splits in half and is pretty waterproof. The orange color is a plus. Anything from a glasses case to a small bag or pouch will work just as well.
Inside are

Several adhesive bandages - both strip and ‘dot’
4 Providone-Iodine prep pads
2 foil packets of Betadine antibiotic ointment
2 foil packets of ‘triple antibiotic ointment’ - also sold as Neosporin
2 individual doses of eye drops in individual ‘tear-off’ dispensers
1 foil packet of lip balm (Blistex brand)
1 packet of Aspirin (2 tablets in packet)
1 2x2 sterile gauze packet
1 2x3 no-stick gauze packet
1 steel splinter tweezers
1 small LED‘squeeze’ light
1 book of military waterproof MRE matches
1 card with 5 ft of duck tape wound upon the card. - one ‘stripe’of tape is 1/2 in wide, the other 1.5 in wide. The card itself is a old‘credit card sized’ plastic card

The kit also has a ‘manual pencil sharpener’ which looks like a small folding barber razor. Small, it has a two inch ‘razor’ blade that folds into its handle for safety. Just the thing for scraping off cactus needles and the like. There is room for a flat Fresnel lens to spot splinters. I keep one in my wallet, so not shown in this kit.

The case is secured with a large rubber band, which helps keep the case inside of a pocket and can further be used as‘tinder’ if a fire is needed.

The next level in the multi-layer approach is a Minor Trauma kit.

The basis (container) for this is the well known military Individual First Aid Kit, Field (NSN 6545-01-521-8502).

Minor trauma may be falls, twisted or sprained joints, cuts or minimal depth penetrating injury. While not adequate for large lacerations, avulsions or deep penetrating injuries, it should do for the risk posed by your day to day outside activities. One per individual, extras for the work area. Works with ‘expansion’ module listed next.

On summer break from college, I worked for a geophysical exploration company. In remote Montana , one of our field crew was struck just below the knee with a chainsaw in a brush cutting operation. The saw cut deep, into the bone. The location of the injury allowed us to treat and self-evacuate while treating. The crew person required surgery and a hospital stay but thanks to the care given in the field, was able to fully recover with no permanent loss of mobility. The module described here would meet the needs of this type of accident.

Still small in size (4-3/4 inches high by 2-3/8 deep by 4-1/2 wide) the kit was designed to accommodate a waterproof plastic insert box which contained the components of the military Individual First Aid Kit. The first pattern (preferred) has snaps to fasten the cover flap. The case can be attached to any belt via two ALICE clips. This makes a good platform to build upon. The nylon cover is larger than the ‘insert’ allowing for additional items to be added. This container is available from multiple sources on line.

This is for dealing with minor trauma with limited bleeding. Inside the nylon case we find:

8 Providone-Iodine prep pads
2 hand wash packets (commercial - to clean your hands before or after)
1 aluminized mylar ‘survival blanket’ - this to wrap the patient should shock or cold be an issue
1 gauze eye pad
1 set (or more) latex or Nitrile gloves in Ziploc bag, not sterile, but clean
1 Insert, First aid (plastic)
The plastic insert box holds:
3 Dressing, First aid, Field, Individual Troop, 4x7 inches
1 Bandage, muslin, compressed - a triangular bandage, or cravat
2 Band-Aid brand bandage 2x3 in (larger than the 1 x 2 in ones used in simple kits)
1 Band-Aid bandage, extra large
6 adhesive bandages - 4 ‘normal’, 2 small
2 foil packets, triple antibiotic
2 foil packets, burn get (Lidocaine)
4 large safety pins - for use with the cravat
1 packet electrolyte tablets
1 eye drops in tear-off dispenser
1 book of waterproof MRE matches

If you will support an industrial type operation, you may wish to add a pair of tourniquets. Keep in mind, use of a tourniquet will require you to seek advanced, professional medical care at a hospital or trauma centeras soon as possible.

The “expansion” module for the above listed kit is for more extensive trauma, with bleeding. This should be adequate for large lacerations, avulsions or deep penetrating injuries - but not penetrating chest injuries which result in a tension pneumothorax or those resulting in evisceration. One per two group members involved in industrial or dangerous activity with a high risk of injury minimum - one per person is better.

For me, this module is housed in a soft-sided nylon case 8 x 6 x 3 in deep. It has a strap handle and a steel clip similar to a carabiner to hold the case, should that be required. Color is optional, mine happens to be bright red with a First Aid logo on the exterior, but almost any waterproof container will work.

We had a call to respond to where a person had pushed their hand through a plate glass window. The person had severe and deep lacerations to the hand, with soft tissue avulsion (‘meaty’ parts of one finger removed to the bone). This kit would be adequate to deal with this level of injury.

This module contains:

2 sets of latex or nitrile gloves in Ziploc bag
1 package of 10 cotton applicators (Q-tips)
3 5 x 9 sterile combination dressing
2 Dressings, First Aid, Field 4 x 7 in
5 3 x 4 in non-adhering sterile gauze pads
2 tongue depressors/splits
1 bandage compress, muslin - also called triangular bandage or cravat
1 non-stick gauze pad
1 eye patch
1 Band-Aid - extra large
1 roll 2 in self adhering bandage
1 roll 2 in bandage gauze with 2 safety pins
1 tourniquet
1 set plastic ‘splinter’ tweezers
1 set steel tweezers
1 ‘travel sized’ vial of 200mg INN (Ibuprofen) 22 tablets

1 vial of spray Neosporin
3 swabs, tincture of benzoin for use with SteriStrips
2 packages of ‘SteriStrip’ wound closure strips, butterfly bandages are a substitute
15 Providone-Iodine prep pads
30 adhesive bandages (1x 2)
I plastic hard case insert (3.5 x 4 x 1 in deep)
5 2 x 3 non-stick gauze pads
1 3.5 x 5 in moleskin patch
5 eye drop doses in ‘tear off’ dispensers
6 tabs Imodium (OTC)
4 large safety pins
1 #10 sterile scalpel blade
2 foil packets triple antibiotic ointment
2 foil packets ‘burn gel’ (lidocaine)
2 packets electrolyte tablet (2 tabs per packet)

The next level module is for major trauma.

Housed in a surplus M-3 Medic bag, it has supplies for dealing with major trauma, heavy bleeding, crushing injury. At this stage any injury you treat will require professional medical care found at a hospital or trauma center. Designed to provide pre-hospital treatment of large lacerations, avulsions or deep penetrating injuries which may result in a tension pneumothorax or those resulting in evisceration.

These kits are normally built based on the advice of a trauma physician and include items not covered in training at a level below P-EMT. As such, I will just list some items to provide an idea of the level of care that might be provided -

4 sets latex or nitrile gloves

2 N-95 masks
1 set eye protection
1 SAM brand splint
2 Quick-clot gauze, large
2 Quick-clot gauze, small
20 5 x 9 sterile dressings
20 4 x 4 sterile non-stick pads
2 hot packs (hand warmers are fine)
2 cold packs
2 6 in Ace bandages
2 4 in Ace bandages
2 4 in self-adhering bandages
4 rolls 4 in Kale
2 Israeli Emergency Bandage 6 in with slider
1 Israeli Abdominal Emergency Bandage - 12"

or
1 Silver "H" Compression Bandage (optional as it is specialized)
1 set of OTC meds (ASA/INN/antacid/Sudafed) 10 packs of tablets in OTC doses
1 headlamp - LED - stays in kit.

This is a sample- I strongly suggest you discuss the items for this module with your own medical professional and factor in your level of training, location and risk exposure. I don’t discourage the view that having more‘advanced’ supplies is a good thing - for use by medical professionals to treat your group members in case the pros supplies are exhausted. I will caution you however.

About those 'advanced' supplies - in some States suturing, for example, is considered surgery - and requires professional licensing to perform. If all goes well, fine. If things go badly, you can expect trouble on many fronts. The Good Samaritan laws I am familiar with do not cover you if you perform advanced medical procedures without the documented training and licensing required by the local authorities. If society collapses, this is most likely not going to be an issue. If this ‘system’ is for disaster support - it will become an issue. You can make that decision for yourself.

Both so-called M-3 and M17 based “Medic kits” are offered online. The M3 bags are far smaller and easier to carry and work with in the field.
Prices range from under $30 to over $300.

You must examine the offered contents closely! The “trauma items” offered by some vendors includes such items as a 100 ct package of Q-Tips, 100 adhesive strips (Band-Aids) and so on. These items are quite useful, but are not normally considered in the same class as pressure dressings or tourniquets.

Other vendors offer the “Medic kits” as surplus and may include IV setups, IV bags, and other advanced treatment items. All of these advanced items have “use by” or expiration dates and may have issues with packaging that has not kept the items sterile. Use common sense or ask a professional. The medic bags may be purchased empty and filled as you deem appropriate, this is usually the best option. Consultation with a professional can save you money - by not purchasing unnecessary, outdated or overpriced items.

The final module is for what I will term clinical treatment.

Here is where most of the ‘hardware’resides. For me - it is a two part setup. I use a large tackle box which provides water resistant protected storage and a means to organize the items. The other is a commercial ‘first aid’ bag that folds out presenting many pockets to hold items. These are used to provide follow-on treatment and treat ‘sick call’ type complaints - earaches, foreign object in the eye, colds, hay fever and so on.

Typical contents are:

1 box of latex or nitrile gloves
Surgical soap or Betadine or Hibiclens Soap for cleaning your hands and any wound areas that require cleaning. Check with your medical professional on cleaning tips.
Eye protection and masks
5 x 9 sterile pads for wound dressing changes
Adaptic pads for still draining wounds or burn dressing changes
Steri-strips for reclosure of lacerations, if needed, when changing dressings
Multiple swabs, tincture of benzoin. for use with SteriStrips
Several oz of medical saline solution for wound cleaning, eye wash and so on. Several 2 oz squeeze bottles of saline are better then one big container.
Commercial dental kit + several teabags. Ask your dentist what is best for you.
Stethoscope and sphygmomanometer to monitor blood pressure in long term care, monitor for pulmonary sounds (like rales) and to check for distal pulse sounds.

Note - while the simple ‘nurse’ type stethoscope is just fine, the slightly more expensive Rappaport (two headed) type, with changeable diaphragms, offers better sensitivity.

A quality otoscope for ear examinations, an important item if your group includes small children. Some are sold with booklets containing color photos of different conditions.

A UV or Cobalt Blue light for in use in conjunction with orange dye (fluorescein)
to detect foreign bodies in the eye or damage to the surface of the eye.
Used with saline solution eye drops, it can be used to confirm all debris has been removed from the eye. Ask your medical professional to demonstrate correct use before you use these items.

I suggest adding a set of ‘hobby’headband magnifying lenses - very handy in eye examinations - and allow hand-free use.

Some kind of notebook or other means of recording treatment. These records can be important in the long run, certainly valuable to medical professionals if you seek care after treatment.

Activated charcoal and syrup of ipecac are not included in this module. The American Academy of Pediatrics recommends that ipecac syrup not be stocked at home, the same for the charcoal. Activated charcoal can cause‘concretions’ in the intestines, an often fatal condition.
You should closely examine those items your group will carry and consult with a poison control unit to determine risk and treatment if the substance is ingested, now. Examples include water treatment tablets, prescription medicines and so on.

A separate OTC carrier. These may hold:

24 Aspirin, 325 mg Tablet
24 Acetaminophen, 325 mg Tablet
24 Ibuprofen, 200 mg Tablet
24 Diphenhydramine, 25 mg Capsule
24 Diamode, 2 mg Tablet
24 Diotame Tablet
24 Alamag Tablet
24 Sudafed Tablet
3 Cera Lyte 70, 50 g Packet, Lemon
24 Loperamide tablets (Commercial name - Imodium)
12 Triple Antibiotic Ointment
12 Hydrocortisone Cream 1%
Printout - of all OTC meds, showing reactions, contraindications and save dose levels

(Consult a PDR guide IF UNSURE ON OTC MEDS AND INTERACTIONS)

Checking with a medical professional on your selection of OTC meds is a good idea if you have members with prescription medicines or long term health issues.
Prescription drugs and antibiotics are best discussed and obtained from your health care professional. In many jurisdictions possession of prescription items without the accompanying script is a felony.

Do not carry any medicines or pills in unmarked containers. Period.

Officer Friendly and his trusty canine companion just may not understand. Avoid that dirty boot on the neck and those cold steel bracelets - ensure all items are in the original and marked containers.

I have covered a module based approach for first aid treatment of :
*Minor injury, individual
*Minor trauma, individual with limited bleeding
*Expansion module for minor trauma kit to deal with significant bleeding
*Major trauma - as bad as it gets
*Clinical or ‘sick call’’ type issues
In layers that provide for mutual support, ease of carry and distributed carry - avoiding a ‘all eggs in one basket’ for medical support.

 

A milti-layered kit does not need to be expensive or massive - it does need to be tailored to you, your family or group. Check with your local health provider and get that training beforeyou need a FAK.

Good luck.

DKR/dkr

Thank you, Mr. Richardson, for this excellent post. 

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